Um, I’m in the wrong queue……
The art of queuing, a great British institution. So I find myself at 9am on Saturday morning in a long long queue to enter the Chamundi Temple at the top of Chamundi Hill. This was not the plan.
My Friday afternoon was spent running errands, registering for practicing at KPJAYI with Saraswathi Jois, printing the required paper work for registration, visiting a favourite shop… Friday evening I went to aarti at the Ramakrishna Ashram (I will write about this in the future).
I woke up on Saturday, put my mat down and practiced. Anyone who travels and maintains a practice is used to the experience of rearranging furniture, modifying asanas in accordance with space, making the best of a situation. This was the situation 😉


At about 07.30 I had finished making shapes and I was ready to climb the 1008 steps up Chamundi Hill. I used to do it every Saturday, it’s not a difficult climb and there is a ritual element of pilgrimage to it that I like. I enjoy the sweating and the cardiovascular element as well as the magic of the scenery.
When I arrived there were police directing cars and rickshaws and there was a festival energy in the air. I wasn’t aware of any major festival this weekend, but I am ignorant of all them. It was definitely busier than I remember it being. You start by touching the feet of Lakshmi at the bottom of the steps, passing under a great arch you begin the climb up into the wild green vegetation, surrounded by monkeys.

There were many women stopping at each step to daub kumkum (turmeric) onto them. Bending down, taking a pinch from the plate they carry it on and using, I think, the ring finger to apply the kumkum to the step – 1008 times! Some friends and I did it once, it is a way of really marking the climb as sacred, a way of offering your effort and respects to the Goddess it is a kind of tapas (effort put towards a spiritual goal). My tapas this day was to take off my shoes and do the climb barefoot. I’ve never done it barefoot before, and honestly I think I will always do it barefoot now. It felt incredible to have the stone, cool and a little damp from all the rain under the soles of my feet. I loved knowing that my feet would be stained red from the coloured turmeric. It felt right.



About halfway up there is a giant stone Nandi stature. Nandi is the vehicle of Shiva, he also stands watch whilst Shiva meditates. I was told once that if you want to ask Shiva for a boon rather than disturbing Him you whisper it in Nandi’s ear and when Shiva comes out of his mediation he will relay to Shiva. Nandi the bull, Shiva’s messaging service. Since I was told this every time I pass a Nandi I bow down, cup my hand around his ear and whisper “world peace please”. Anything is possible for Yogeshwara.
Arriving at the top there were yet more police and more signs that large numbers of people were expected. Lots of crowd control measures. I deposited my shoes at the shoe stand. Even taking shoes into the temple in a bag is deeply disrespectful. I walked around the outside of the Chamundi Temple marvelling at the decorations that had been put up and wondering why. I asked a policeman and he explained that in this month, the month of Ashadha, every Friday they have a big Lakshmi puja and many people come from all over Karataka. This month is when the sun turns retrograde and from now until Shankranti in January traditionally any auspicious endeavour is avoided, if you are middling traditional you avoid doing anything that needs an auspicious date only for this month.
Okdokes, I thought, I’ll be giving the big temple a miss today then. And I pootled off around the corner to go to the Shiva temple. As I approached I noticed there seemed to be a small queue here also and a small entry fee, which I had never seen for the Shiva temple here before. I bought a small garland of flowers to offer and went and joined the line. I paid my 50INR and headed in the gate working through the cattle pen like structures that had been set up to manage the number of people and maintain some measure of order.
The line turned right. The Shiva temple was left. I was a little confused why they were directing us this way around but ok, I will happily trot along. The line turned right again. We were now in a barred and cramped set of structures, that could have felt quite claustrophobic. Generally I avoid these sorts of situations. The Hillsborough disater in 1989 where people died by being crushed against a barrier left a strong imprint in my mind. I am aware that large groups of people can be unpredictable and I am someone who always like to know where the emergency exit is. There wasn’t one.
This is queue.


I realised I had joined the queue for the Chamundi Temple and now I couldn’t turn round and say “sorry wrong temple, let me out please.”
The queue moved fast and was very peaceful, respectful. The lady behind me warned me I should cover my flowers or the monkeys would steal them. My offering to Shiva would be going to Shakti instead. As we neared the main door everyone became quiet, you could hear lips moving in soundless mantra japa.
Looking up the ceiling of the temple was covered with flowers. Photos were permitted outside the temple but once you cross the threshold not.
Inside, it was packed, no personal space and moving with the throng of people. In the main sanctuary for a moment I saw the beautiful silver murti smiling benignly at us all, the crowd moved on and me with it. Outside in the courtyard there was a smaller alter that was not so busy and I presented my flowers there. The priest took them and gave me prasad. I got some kumkum, a single rose and 6 green glass bangles. Treasure. I am very glad I joined the wrong queue, I feel as though this trip has been blessed by the Goddess herself.


Now down the hill on the bus into town for my first Dosa.






















